It takes about 40 steps to get to the finished jewel. The plating is one of the most important. Our brass pieces are filed, polished, punched and then brought to the gilding workshop where they are given their final colour. It is thanks to our plating, also called "gilding by electrolysis", that our jewellery is water resistant! Everything is made in Paris, 10 minutes from our offices!
Once the brass parts are received, their surfaces are analysed in order to establish the price of the plating. Our team and the gilding workshop with which we work validate this together and ... let's go for gilding!
The brass parts are attached by hand, one by one, on wires before being mounted on the "shaft" (the mounting bracket) which will be immersed in the "plating bath".
This step can be very long, especially if the pieces are small (this is the case for ear cuffs or mini-creoles). Dexterity, meticulousness and patience are required!
A small metal plate is also attached to the shaft for a check that will take place in a next step (remember this!). The small coloured beads are used to identify the different references, there are often several on the same tree!
Attaching the parts in this way allows for an even distribution of the "plating bath" for perfect processing!
On all our new models, you will find (sometimes in very small) the letter "W" or the word "WAEKURA". Recently we have been putting our logo on our parts. Above, here is the machine that allows us to do so.
NB: since October 10th, we make the punch with laser, cleaner, it avoids having micro-scratches!
For gold plating, we do not have a hallmark. Why not? It doesn't change anything to the quality, the 3 microns being the legal obligation. Our jewels are simply too small to put a Pisce gold plated ! We could do it, but it would be an extra cost (0.50 cents in all transparency), and would not bring anything in value of the pieces. Our promise, 3 microns jewels with a gilding in France, guaranteed by our care (and our super workshop)
We would have loved to show you a bath of glittering gold, but alas, in reality it doesn't happen like that!
It is important to know that there are several shades of veneer.
At Waekura, we have chosen to apply a light yellow, almost beige colour, so that the jewel does not look too yellow. It is also at this stage that we choose the finish: matt, brushed or glossy. It is the latter that we have adopted for our beautiful shiny jewellery! But, in the future, if we decide to create jewellery in pink gold or silver, we will have to choose a completely different colour (and a completely different metal for silver pieces)!
This is what a plating bath looks like! (photo 1)
All these small pools contain different products (acids, alkaline copper baths, etc.) at different temperatures. All our parts are immersed in them 80 times! (photo 2)
They're submerged, then rinsed, and it starts all over again! During this treatment, the parts take on different colours. From brass grey to pink, before becoming golden ... (picture 3)
The 3 micron gold corresponds to the thickness of the gold layer on the brass base. In the baths, the gold is in powder form.
The more time goes by, the more the pieces will turn yellow.
In order for the gold to cover the entire surface, the coins will again be rotated in a bath for 3 minutes. (photos 4)
We're almost there! Before finalizing the plating step, the parts are checked to ensure that the gold layer is 3 microns thick.
Do you remember the little metal plate attached to "the tree"? That's where it comes in! The plate is detached and then analyzed. Since the plate is made of steel and the gold is not yet dry, it cracks easily. A part of the gold plate is therefore detached and the verdict falls: 3.8 microns It's PERFECT!
NB: It takes a minimum of 3 microns for parts to be recognized as "gold-plated"!
A last bath of 15 minutes and the pieces are perfect!
The "trees" are then placed in a huge machine in which they will dry for a few minutes.
Last step: the "quality" team checks that all parts are well plated, that the gilding covers them completely and that there are no problems.
There you go, nice gold-plated jewellery!
From now on, all you have to do is detach the parts, wrap them individually so as not to scratch them, bring them to the office (which is right next door), reference them, take pictures of them and put them online before unveiling them to you!
We sincerely hope you enjoyed this 100% transparent article. We would like to show you and let you discover the behind-the-scenes of our jewellery making. And this, even when it is not "instagrammable" so that you can know what you are buying!
Thank you to Anne-Marie, Fabienne and Mathieu who welcomed us so that we could show you everything, and above all
♡ THANK YOU for trusting us ♡
7 comments
GUY-SEGERS
Thank you for the information on the plating of your jewellery. We can't resist.
Tremoulet
Thank you very much for sharing with us the stages of production and your enthusiasm, what a pleasure to have such nice jewellery made in France
Tremoulet
Thank you very much for sharing with us the stages of production and your enthusiasm, what a pleasure to have such nice jewellery made in France
Sonia
Hello, a question that has nothing to do with your article, is it possible to customize a jewelry, example modify the clasp?
Thank you for your feedback, Cdt
Martin
Very informative article, thank you for enlightening us on this whole process. Keep it up 👌
Leave a comment
All comments are moderated before being published.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA, and the Privacy Policy and the Google's Terms of Use apply.